You’re not alone. This is one of the most common training frustrations I see.

The good news is, it’s not because your dog is being stubborn or “only works for food”. It’s usually because they’ve learned to follow the picture you show them, not just the word you say.

The real problem: getting stuck with the lure

Using food to teach behaviours is brilliant. It’s quick, it’s clear for the dog, and it helps them understand what you want much faster.

But there’s a catch.

When you teach a behaviour with a treat in your hand, your dog doesn’t just learn the word “sit” or “down”. They learn:

• Your hand position
• The movement of your hand
• The sight (and smell) of the food
• And the word you say

Dogs are very visual learners. So if every single repetition of “sit” has included your hand with food in it, your dog hasn’t really learned “sit” on its own. They’ve learned “sit + hand with food”.

From their point of view, if the picture is incomplete, the cue is incomplete.

That’s why, when you take the food away, they look at you like you’ve asked them something entirely new.

The solution: fade the lure, don’t just remove it

The fix is not to suddenly stop using food and hope for the best. That usually just leads to confusion and frustration for both of you.

Instead, you want to gradually fade the lure out of the picture.

Here’s what that looks like in practice.

Step-by-step example: teaching “down” without relying on food

1. Start with the lure
   Do several repetitions where you move the food to the floor and say “down”, and your dog follows the food into position. At this stage, you’re just building understanding.
2. Keep the same movement, lose the food
   Once your dog is reliably following the lure, try one repetition with no food in your hand. Use the same hand movement and say “down” in the same way, just without the treat visible.

If your dog lies down, great. Reward them straight away from your pocket or treat pouch.

3. Mix it up
   Don’t remove the lure forever in one go. Do a few reps with the food, then one without. Over several short sessions, gradually increase how many you do without the lure.

Your goal is that the hand movement and the word are enough to prompt the behaviour, while the food comes afterwards as a reward, not as a guide.

4. Be patient if your dog struggles
   If your dog gets stuck when you remove the lure, that’s completely normal. It just means this step is a bit hard for them. Go back to using the lure for a few more reps, then try again later. Some dogs need a more gradual fade than others.

What you’re aiming for

Eventually, your dog should respond to:

• Your verbal cue
• And maybe a simple hand gesture

…without needing to see food first.

The treats don’t disappear. They just move from being a bribe in your hand to a reward that comes after the behaviour.

That one change makes a huge difference to how demonstrated and reliable your training feels in everyday life.

Final thought

If your dog only listens when you have treats out, it doesn’t mean you’ve done anything wrong. It usually just means the lure stuck around a bit too long.

Fade it gradually, keep your sessions short and positive, and you’ll start seeing your dog respond even when your hands are empty.

If you’re struggling to fade food lures with your dog, this is something I help clients with in 1–1 training. You can find out more about working with me here.

The post Why Your Dog Only Listens When You Have Treats (And How to Fix It) appeared first on Axe Valley Dog Training.

On this page, I’ve put together a list of the dog training products I use, and recommend to my clients. Whether you’re training a puppy, working with a reactive dog, or just want better, calmer walks, these may help. Some of these are affiliate links (which means I may earn a small commission), and some are simply products I stock because I genuinely believe in them, but every single one has earned its place here.

Tug-E-Nuff – Brilliant Training Toys That Dogs Go Wild For

Best for:

• Building engagement and focus
• Recall training
• Prey drive
• Channelling bitey puppy behaviour
• Making training fun again

Tug-E-Nuff are a UK-based dog toy brand, and a Devon local! Their toys are genuinely something special. They’re made to help you teach skills, build motivation, and strengthen your relationship with your dog.

I use Tug-E-Nuff toys all the time in training because they’re fantastic for:

• Reward-based training
• Teaching recalls
• Giving dogs a safe, appropriate outlet for biting, tugging and chasing
• Making yourself fun!

They’ve even released a blog with awesome training games using their toys, which is well worth a look.

Your discount

I’m a Tug-E-Nuff partner, which means new customers can get 10% off their first order.

Grab your discount here: https://tug-e-nuff.com/AXEVALLEY

If you use my link, I’ll get a little thank you that goes towards keeping my demo toys stocked for use in my classes.

These toys are especially great for safely building and channelling your dog’s prey drive into training. If you’d like to understand this better, I’ve written a full guide on prey drive in dogs and how to use it in training here.

Pet Remedy – Natural Calming Support for Anxious Dogs

Best for:

• Anxious or worried dogs
• Fireworks, visitors, vet trips, car journeys
• Settling into new environments
• Supporting behaviour work alongside training

Pet Remedy make natural calming products that can really help take the edge off for dogs who find the world a bit overwhelming. I often recommend them as a support tool alongside training, especially for dogs who are very sensitive, easily stressed, or struggling to relax.

They’re not a “magic fix” (nothing is), but they can be a really useful part of a wider behaviour and training plan to help dogs feel safer and calmer while they’re learning.

Your discount

You can get 25% off your purchase using my referral link: https://petremedy.co.uk/ref/AXEVALLEY/

Butternut Box – Fresh, High-Quality Food Delivered to Your Door

Best for:

• Owners who want simple, high-quality nutrition
• Supporting overall health and wellbeing
• Dogs who are fussy eaters

Butternut Box make fresh, gently cooked dog food that’s delivered straight to your door. The quality is excellent, and for many dogs it can be a real game-changer for appetite, energy levels, and even training motivation.

Good nutrition matters, not just for health, but for learning, focus, and emotional regulation too.

Your discount

You can get 50% off your second box using this link: https://butternutbox.com/AxeValley50

The Muzzle Movement – Stylish, Comfortable Safety Muzzles

Best for:

• Dogs who need safe mouth control in public spaces
• Reactive dogs in training
• Vet or groomer visits
• A positive muzzle-wearing experience

The Muzzle Movement make very well-designed muzzles that balance safety, comfort, and freedom of panting/licking, without the bulky or restrictive feel of old-school basket muzzles. Whether you’re working with a reactive dog, managing fear-based behaviours, or simply want peace of mind on walks, a good muzzle can be a game changer, and these ones are built with both dog comfort and humane training in mind.

What I really like about them:

• Anatomically shaped for comfort and airflow
• Made from high-quality materials
• Great for positive muzzle training, not just restraint
• Looks friendlier and feels more breathable than many others

Your discount

You can get 10% off your order when you use my affiliate link: https://themuzzlemovement.com/?ref=axevalley

Perfect Fit Harness – My Go-To Harness (Not an Affiliate)

Best for:

• Comfortable, secure walks
• Dogs who don’t fit “standard” harness sizes
• Reducing pressure on the neck
• Better freedom of movement

Perfect Fit Harnesses are not an affiliate. I stock them because I genuinely think they’re one of the best harness systems out there.

They’re modular, which means you can mix and match pieces to get a proper, comfortable fit for your dog (no more awkward rubbing, twisting, or escaping). I recommend these a lot in training because good equipment makes everything easier, for both you and your dog.

If you’re interested, just ask me and I can help you get the right fit.

Biothane Long Lines – Durable, Low Maintenance Training Lines

Best for:

• Recall and long-distance training
• Field work and off-lead progressions
• Reliable control without knots or stretching
• Wet or muddy conditions

When you’re working on recall, engagement or distance work, a long line is one of the most useful tools you can have. While many training lines are made from nylon or rope, biothane long lines offer a few advantages that make them a favourite for a lot of handlers:

Why I Recommend Biothane Long Lines

• Easy to clean: Mud, grass and water wipe straight off, no soaking or scrubbing.
• Don’t knot as easily: Unlike fabric leads, biothane doesn’t get knotted as easily.
• Weather resistant: Great for UK conditions, rain, puddles and wet grass don’t degrade the material.
• Durable: Tough stuff that lasts through heavy use without fraying.

These qualities make biothane lines especially useful for recall training, long-distance work, scentwork, providing freedom while still under control, particularly with dogs who need space.

A Quick Transparency Note

Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. That means:

• You don’t pay extra
• You often get a discount
• I get a small commission as a thank you for the referral

I only recommend products I genuinely believe in and use in my training or with my clients.

Final Thoughts: Choosing the Best Dog Training Products for Your Dog

There’s no single “perfect” piece of kit for every dog, but choosing well-designed, training-friendly equipment can make a huge difference to your dog’s progress and your enjoyment of training.

If you’re ever unsure what would suit your dog best, or you want help choosing the right equipment for your situation, feel free to ask me, either in a session or via message.

And if you’re looking for more help with training, you might also want to check out my:

• Puppy training classes
• 1-to-1 training sessions
• Free online resources

The right tools + the right training plan = a much happier dog (and human).

The post My Favourite Dog Training Brands (And Why I Recommend Them) appeared first on Axe Valley Dog Training.

Which is why it’s slightly embarrassing to admit that, three days into learning how to crochet, I completely ignored my own advice.

I often remind my clients that taking things slowly is one of the most important parts of training a dog.

Which is why it’s slightly embarrassing to admit that, three days into learning how to crochet, I completely ignored my own advice.

This whole experience has been fairly solid proof that the phrase “do as I say, not as I do” is 100% accurate.

When I’m teaching my lovely clients and students, I regularly talk about the importance of repeating the basic skills. Practising the “boring” stuff until both the dog and the human really get it.

It might not feel exciting, but it works.

Those foundations are what lead to success, reduced frustration, lower stress levels, and a much more enjoyable learning experience overall.

Which is why, after just three days of learning three basic crochet stitches, I decided I was ready to make a granny square.

(Reader, I was not ready.)

To be clear, I did follow instructions — I’m not that reckless. But what followed was two further evenings of effort, over ten complete unravels, and a surprising number of swear words aimed directly at a ball of yarn.

Eventually, I did manage to make a granny square.

If you’re being generous with the word square.

If I had done what I tell my students to do — “practise the easy things until they’re second nature, then add difficulty” — I could have saved myself hours of frustration. And that ball of yarn would not have been launched across the room.

The following evening, I went back to basics.

I practised the same stitch over and over again. No project. No end goal. Just repetition. Getting familiar with how it felt, how the yarn moved, how my hands worked together. Trying to enjoy the process instead of rushing to the result.

And that’s when it really clicked.

Because even in crochet, there are so many things happening at once. How to hold the hook. How to hold the yarn. How tight the stitches should be. Which stitch comes next. How to count properly. And that’s all before you’ve even made anything recognisable.

For someone new to a hobby, that’s overwhelming.

So instead of trying to do everything at once, I focused on one thing at a time.

First, familiarity with the stitches.
Then, a very simple beginner project.
Then, paying attention to tension.

I made several small pieces, and with each one I got better — at counting stitches, at seeing where each stitch actually was in the mess of yarn, at controlling tension, and at making sure things ended up roughly where they were meant to be.

I couldn’t have done all of that at once.

One of the nicest things about crochet is that mistakes aren’t a disaster. If you spot one, you can go back a few stitches. You can unravel the whole thing if you want. Or you can leave the mistake in, finish the piece, and look at it later to understand why it happened.

That part felt very familiar.

With dogs, mistakes in training aren’t the end of the world either. Yes, repeated mistakes can take longer to undo – but a few slip-ups here and there are often brilliant learning opportunities. They tell you what needs more clarity, more repetition, or a simpler setup.

I’m still frustrated with the yarn sometimes. That hasn’t magically disappeared.

But I haven’t stopped enjoying the process of learning and creating. I’m getting better with every attempt, and I’m learning something new each time I pick it up — even when things don’t go to plan.

And when it does all come together, when something finally works, the outcome feels worth it.

Not because it’s perfect.
But because I know how much patience, repetition, and learning went into it.

If you’re feeling stuck with your dog right now, or frustrated that progress feels slow, consider this your reminder: slow doesn’t mean failing — it usually means you’re doing it properly.

The post What Crochet Taught Me About Patience (And Why I Ignored My Own Advice) appeared first on Axe Valley Dog Training.

If at any point you feel unsure about why your dog is jumping or how to help them, Struggling with jumping up? Book a personalised training session with me

What does it mean when a dog keeps jumping up on you?

Dogs jump up for different reasons:

• Excitement or happiness when you come home
• Feeling unsure and looking for support
• Wanting more space and using their body to create it

The happy “you’re home!” jump is the one most people struggle with. But it’s still important to understand the reason behind the behaviour. A dog who jumps because they’re worried needs very different support than a dog who’s thrilled to see you. If you’re not sure which fits your dog, feel free to reach out. Contact me for guidance.

In this blog, we’ll focus on the most common type of jumping: the excited greeting.

Will my dog grow out of jumping up?

No. Dogs repeat behaviours that work for them. When your dog jumps up and gets attention, even if you’re saying “no”, the behaviour has still been reinforced.

That attention might look like:

• Talking to them
• Pushing them down
• Stroking them
• Laughing
• Any interaction at all

For many adolescent dogs, even negative attention still counts. If jumping works, they’ll keep doing it, which is why we need to teach them what does work instead.

What commands stop dogs from jumping?

Commands (or cues) don’t stop jumping by themselves. Before you can use a cue like sit, your dog needs to understand what that word means in a calm environment first.

Once they understand the cue well, you can start using it as part of a new greeting routine. Cues only work if the dog has already learned the behaviour and has the ability to think clearly in that moment.

How do you train a dog to not jump on you?

There are two main approaches that work well together.

1. Teach an incompatible behaviour

Ask your dog to do something they physically can’t do while jumping, such as:

• Sit
• Lie down
• Go to a mat or bed

This is proactive and clear. Instead of reacting to chaos, you’re showing your dog what will get them the attention they want. Over time, they’ll choose these calmer behaviours on their own.

2. Reward your dog for not jumping

This keeps things simple and consistent. Every time your dog keeps four paws on the floor, reward them:

• With food placed on the floor
• With calm attention
• With gentle fuss at their level

By rewarding the behaviour you want, your dog learns that staying down is far more rewarding than launching up.

Important things to keep in mind

1. Prevent the jumping while they’re learning
   Use baby gates, pens or a barrier so your dog can’t rush you the second you walk in. This gives them space to calm down and helps you stay consistent.
2. Don’t reinforce jumping once it happens
   Avoid giving them attention when they’re jumping up. Simply turn away.
   When your dog puts four paws on the floor again, greet them calmly.
3. Change how you greet your dog
   Much of our attention happens above the dog’s head, which encourages upward behaviour. Try greeting them at their level instead:
   • Crouch down
   • Offer chest rubs
   • Keep your hands low

This helps your dog succeed and keeps greetings calmer.

How to stop a dog jumping when excited?

Excited dogs find self-control harder. Adrenaline makes it more difficult for them to think clearly.

Start by helping your dog calm down first.

1. Manage the situation

• Keep them behind a baby gate or in a safe area so they can’t jump on visitors or you
• Use a lead when greeting people outside so they can’t physically reach them

2. Help them regulate

Activities that promote calm include:

• Sniffing
• Eating
• Licking
• Chewing

Try using a:

• Snuffle mat
• Licki mat
• Scatter feed
• Yak stick or other healthy chew

3. Ask for known behaviours once they’re calmer

When their brain is back online, you can:

• Ask for the incompatible behaviour you’ve taught
• Reward them for keeping four paws on the floor as you enter or as visitors approach

Important note

Never shut a puppy behind a door alone if they cannot cope with being separated.

What mental stimulation helps calm dogs?

Eating, sniffing, licking and chewing are brilliant for helping dogs settle. Try:

• Snuffle mats or a blanket with food hidden in it
• A Licki mat with something tasty spread over it
• Scatter feeding around the house or garden
• Healthy chews like yak sticks, fish skins or jerky

These activities help dogs decompress and reduce the urge to jump.

If you’d like personalised support tailored to your dog,
Struggling with jumping up? Book a personalised training session with me

The post How to Stop a Dog from Jumping Up on You appeared first on Axe Valley Dog Training.

If your dog hears “Come!” and responds with… absolutely nothing… you’re not alone.
For dogs with high prey drive, recall can feel impossible.

But it isn’t.
Not when you understand what’s going on inside your dog’s brain and how to work with it.

This guide will help you build a recall that’s not perfect (because that’s not real!), but reliable, strong, and trustworthy.

Let’s get you both there.

Can you teach a dog perfect recall?

Honest answer?
Not really, not even for the pros.

A “perfect” recall means a dog will choose you over:

• Deer
• Birds
• Rabbits
• Cow pats
• Other dogs
• And every exciting thing the world offers

That’s… a big ask.

The goal instead is:
A reliable recall based on understanding your dog’s limits.

Even the best trainers:

• Use leads in high-risk environments
• Read their dog’s body language
• Know when not to call
• Choose safe, sensible environments for off-lead time

This isn’t lowering standards.
It’s respecting instincts.

How to teach a dog perfect recall? (…or as perfect as possible!)

1. Teach a solid “leave”

A good ‘leave’ starts simple and gets harder in small steps. Here’s the short version:

Stage 1 – Start with food in your hand

• Hold a piece of food in your closed fist.
• Let your dog sniff, lick, paw, don’t move your hand away.
• The moment they look away or back off, mark (“Good!”) and reward from your other hand.
• This teaches: ignoring the thing = reward from you.

Stage 2 – Food on the floor

• Place food on the floor, covered with your hand or foot if they dive in.
• When they look away, mark and reward from your other hand.
• Don’t reward with the food they’re leaving, it must always come from you.

Stage 3 – Add the cue

• When your dog reliably backs off the food, say “Leave” just before you put it down.
• Now the word predicts: don’t take that thing – look to me instead.

Stage 4 – Practise everywhere

• Different rooms
• Garden
• Outdoors
• BUT: don’t use “leave” on real-life prey yet.

Stage 5 – Food with legs!

• Have someone gently roll or toss the food.
• Say “leave”; if your dog goes for it, the helper picks it up first or covers it with a foot. This can be done on a lead if you’re not confident of getting there before your dog does!
• Reward your dog from your hand when they choose to disengage.

Stage 6 – Real-World ‘Leave’ (prey, squirrels, pheasants, etc.)

This is where most progress happens – but it must be controlled.

• Put your dog on a lead in the environment where prey appears.
• As soon as your dog spots the trigger, say “Leave.”
• They may lunge/bark toward it – that’s normal.
• Say nothing, stay calm, and wait.
• When they eventually turn back to you, mark it and give an amazing reward.
• Keep practising until they begin turning to you before the prey disappears – that’s your breakthrough.

As they improve:
Move to a long line (but never near roads, bikes, or traffic).

While teaching it:

• Keep your dog on lead in prey-heavy areas
• Prevent chasing practice (this matters more than anything)
• Pair “leave” practice with calm, low-distraction settings first

Want the full instructions?
Download my complete Leave It Training Handout (PDF) below.

2. Embrace the fact your dog LOVES the chase

Chasing releases adrenaline and feel-good hormones.

This means:

• It’s thrilling
• It’s rewarding
• It’s self-reinforcing
• They’ll do it again… and again…

So instead of fighting it, you harness it (just like we covered in Prey Drive in Dogs: What it is and how to manage it).

Use chase, play, sniffing, shredding and possession as rewards – that will make YOU more interesting than the environment.

How to build your dog’s recall training

Step 1: Build skills at home

Practise recall:

• On and off lead
• Using extremely high-value rewards
• Reward every recall, even slow ones
• Make it fun, not formal

Step 2: Move outside on a regular lead

If you think they won’t listen – don’t recall.

Instead:

• Move into their eyeline
• Wait for them to glance at you
• Jog away
• Say your cue when they follow
• Reward heavily

Step 3: Transition to a long line

This is your safety net.

• Recall at achievable moments
• Reward spontaneous, voluntary recalls
• Pay them well – even if they take their time

Step 4: Avoid poisoning your recall

You can accidentally teach your dog that “Come!” means something bad is about to happen.

Avoid:

• Calling only when the walk is ending
• Calling them away from fun then scolding them
• Using the same boring treat every time
• Using recall right before clipping on the lead
• Asking them come away from things they find threatening, scary, or concerned about – have you ever had prickly feelings when being followed? Could you ignore it?

Your dog should think:
“Coming back could be AMAZING!”

Salmon today? Tug toy tomorrow? A wild flirt-pole chase?
Who knows! Better come running to find out.

What to do when your dog ignores your recall

Key points:

• Don’t repeat yourself – instinctive dogs won’t hear you
• Don’t punish slow recall
• Don’t chase them
• Don’t yell

Instead:

• Encourage them to chase you
• Practise in easier environments
• Lower expectations temporarily
• Build value back into the recall cue
• Go back to long-line training

And always:

ALWAYS put your dog on a lead around livestock.

Even with excellent recall.
It’s simply never worth the risk.

Using the right rewards and equipment makes a huge difference when training recall with high prey drive dogs. I’ve put together a full guide to the dog training equipment and products I recommend if you want to see what I actually use in training.

Dog training equipment and products I recommend.

Want to dive deeper? Here are a few blogs that pair perfectly with this one:

Prey Drive in Dogs: What It Is And How To Manage It

Still Struggling with Loose Lead Walking? These 4 Things Might Be Getting In The Way

The post Prey Drive in Dogs: Teach a Reliable Recall appeared first on Axe Valley Dog Training.

I’ve been working with a lovely whippet recently—sweet, sensitive, and… extremely opinionated about cats.

When her guardian first explained the issue, I assumed we were dealing with the usual barking or maybe the occasional lunge. But no. This whippet doesn’t just react—she screams. A high-pitched, full-body, heart-and-soul kind of scream. The kind that turns heads. The kind that makes you wish you were invisible.

So, we got to work.

Session One: Laying the Groundwork

Our first session took place at home, far away from any feline distractions. We focused on building some core skills—recall, calm behaviours, and a few new coping tools. Any time she spotted something mildly exciting (not a cat), we celebrated calm responses with generous rewards. These were the foundations she’d need when the cats inevitably appeared.

Session Two: Outside Practice

Feeling good, we moved outdoors for the next session. Armed with our new toolkit, we practised in the real world. She was brilliant—engaged, responsive, showing off everything we’d been working on.
But… no cats.

Honestly, I wasn’t mad about it.

Session Three: Enter the Cat

And then, it happened. A cat. A real one.

Cue the return of the scream. Cue lunging. Cue the sense that maybe we’d achieved nothing in the past two sessions.

At that moment, it was easy to feel like we’d failed. Like everything had unravelled the second a real challenge appeared. And I know that’s something many dog guardians can relate to—doing all the right things and still feeling like you’re back at square one when reality hits.

But Here’s the Thing

Those earlier sessions weren’t a waste of time. Not even close.

Without them, we’d be standing there with no tools, no skills, and a whippet in full meltdown mode. Instead, we had a dog who had the skills—we just needed to help her apply them in this new, harder context.

So we got creative.

The Cat That Wasn’t

We pulled out the remote-control car (yes, really). We strapped a toy cat to it.
Sure, the whippet wasn’t fooled for long. She knew it wasn’t really a cat. But it moved, it had shape, and from a distance, it was close enough to be useful.

Now, we could control the exposure.
We could adjust the distance.
We could set her up to succeed.

And suddenly, we had the perfect training scenario. The skills from sessions one and two started clicking into place. She could now see “a cat” and stay calm enough to practise.

We weren’t asking her to be perfect. Just to be a little better than before.

Progress Isn’t Always Pretty

No, she’s not yet walking past real cats without a peep.
But she can watch one from a distance without the scream. And that’s huge.

Because true progress with our dogs often doesn’t look like a straight line. It looks like wobbles and setbacks and small, surprising wins. It looks like pausing, reassessing, and yes—strapping toy animals to remote control cars.

So if you’ve ever felt like everything went out the window the moment real life walked in—you’re not alone.

Sometimes the magic happens in the mess.
Or the wobble.
Or the unexpected solution you hadn’t thought of before.

Over to You

Have you ever had a “this isn’t going to plan” moment with your dog that actually turned out OK in the end? I’d love to hear about it—drop your story in the comments below or share it with someone who needs a reminder that the messy moments matter, too.

If your dog’s got a bit of a feline fixation—or tends to come unglued at the mere sight of a cat—I can help. Whether it’s lunging, barking, or just being a little too enthusiastic about the local wildlife, you’re not alone.

🎩 My 1-1 training sessions are tailored, kind, and occasionally involve remote-control cars.

Click here to find out more and book – because peace with the neighbourhood cats is possible (and much quieter).

The post The Case of the Screaming Whippet appeared first on Axe Valley Dog Training.

If you’ve ever felt like your terrier has a lot to say, you’re not alone.

Barking might be one of the most frustrating parts of life with a terrier — but here’s the thing:

Terriers don’t bark “just because.”
There’s always a reason, and once you work out why they’re barking, you can start to help them behave differently.

Let’s break down the most common reasons terriers bark, and what you can actually do about it.

1️⃣ Excitement

Some terriers bark simply because they’re excited! You’ll often see this with dogs at agility events or flyball — they’re having the time of their lives, barking their way around the course.

If your terrier barks when excited, it’s really up to you whether you want to stop it or not. A happy, barking terrier isn’t necessarily a problem if it’s not bothering anyone.

But if they’re barking at another dog on a walk because they want to play, that’s not ideal. Instead, teach them an alternative:

➡️ “If you’re quiet, we can go say hello.”

2️⃣ Attention

Terriers often learn that barking gets your attention. Want to change that? Teach them a different way to “ask,” like sitting quietly. Or better yet — give them attention before they even need to ask for it.

⚠️ Ignoring barking rarely works on its own. Often, they’ll just escalate: barking louder, chewing things, jumping up… You don’t want to go there.

3️⃣ Boredom

Bored terriers bark. It’s that simple. And barking takes energy, so tired terriers bark less.

Mental stimulation, sniffing games, training exercises, and interactive toys are all fantastic boredom busters.

4️⃣ Frustration

Barking because they can’t get to something they want (like another dog behind a fence or a ball out of reach) is often frustration barking.

What helps:

• If it’s not appropriate for them to get what they want → call them away, reward, and move on.
• If it is appropriate → teach them how to get it calmly. For example: don’t pull on the lead, check in with you first, etc.

5️⃣ Alert Barking

The classic: “THERE’S SOMEONE AT THE DOOR!”

If you don’t want your terrier barking at all, you can teach them a different behaviour like:

➡️ “Someone’s here? Great — come find me quietly.”

Or, if you don’t mind the initial bark but want to keep it under control, teach a “thank you, that’s enough now” cue.

6️⃣ Perceived Threats

Barking to “see off” a perceived threat is very common, especially with strangers passing the house or other dogs out on walks.

Here, changing how your terrier feels about that thing is key. They need to realise that the “scary” thing isn’t scary at all.

✅ Counter-conditioning works wonders here — pairing the thing they bark at with something great (like treats). What is counter-conditioning? Here’s a video example of using counter-conditioning to help a dog who lunges and barks at scooters.

7️⃣ Worry or Anxiety

Telling someone to “calm down” when they’re genuinely worried doesn’t work — and it’s the same for dogs.

We need to change their emotional response so that they start to feel safer about the thing that worries them.

Again → counter-conditioning is your friend here.

8️⃣ Surprise

Barking when surprised? That’s just… life. If something startles you, you might shout too!

The best thing you can do here is help your terrier recover quickly with reassurance, treats, and creating positive experiences around surprises.

9️⃣ Confusion

Sometimes terriers bark because they don’t understand what you’re asking them to do.

Make sure:

• Your training is clear
• You’re working at your dog’s pace
• You keep sessions short and sweet
• You remember that dogs don’t generalise easily. Just because they can “sit” at home doesn’t mean they know what “sit” means outside in the park yet.

🗝️ The 3 Big Rules of Tackling Terrier Barking:

1. Understand WHY they’re barking.
2. Prevent them from practicing that barking over and over.
3. Teach an alternative behaviour — or help them feel better about the thing causing the barking.

It takes time, but it does work.

Need help with your barking terrier? Feel free to contact me or book a session and we’ll tackle it together.

The post 9 Reasons Your Terrier Barks (and What to Do About It) appeared first on Axe Valley Dog Training.

You know those tasks you have to do, but absolutely dread? For me, that task is social media. I sat down the other day to tackle a month’s worth of posts — and was instantly filled with that heavy, joyless fog of “ugh.”

So naturally, I did what any adult would do:

I put on a playlist called “Sea Shanties That Drop Your Panties.”

⚓ The Sea Shanty Spiral

I’ve always had a soft spot for sea shanties. Long before The Wellerman took over TikTok, I was singing along to “What Shall We Do with the Drunken Sailor” as a kid. My love for rugged bearded men and their salty tunes has not faded with time.

As I tried (and failed) to write the first post, a song came on that made me cackle. I’d never heard the band before, so obviously I had to go full detective. Turns out:

• They’re based in Bristol (local legends!)
• They’re touring
• They’re playing in Lyme Regis
• And — wait for it — they’re performing at the Falmouth Sea Shanty Festival.

🤯 There’s a SEA SHANTY FESTIVAL?!

Cue frantic Googling. (Sadly I can’t go this year, but I’ve already set a reminder for next.)

✍️ Procrastination That Actually Worked

Once the excitement settled, I realised I had something here — a blog post in the making.

Here’s a confession: I usually find writing these blog posts pretty hard.

But not this time.

I opened a Word doc and spilled out this post in five minutes. Normally, that would’ve taken me an hour or two of dragging my feet.

It’s a classic case of procrastination doing something right.

My brain was clearly in the mood to write a blog post… just not social media content.

And instead of fighting it, I followed the flow.
Result? Done faster. Done better. Done with joy.

🐶 What This Has to Do With Dog Training

This is something I tell my clients all the time — especially those struggling with loose lead walking.

Because let’s be honest:
Lead walking is the Facebook posts of dog training.
It’s necessary. It’s repetitive. And most of the time? It’s not fun.

But maybe one morning you wake up, look at your dog and think:
“I want to teach you a little happy tappy dance instead.”

Maybe you saw a Reel last night of a dog doing a ridiculously cute paw-tapping routine, and you just need to try it.

💃 Teach the Happy Tappy Dance

And you know what? Do it.
Because even though lead walking matters, it’s also totally valid to follow your curiosity and joy that day.

Teaching your dog something silly and fun still holds value:

• You’re engaged and excited.
• Your dog is picking up on your energy.
• You’re both learning together — and having a brilliant time doing it.

That’s a win.

🎶 So What’s the Takeaway?

Sometimes productivity looks like doing the thing your brain is actually ready to do — even if it wasn’t what was on your to-do list.

Progress doesn’t always come in the form you expect.
So if you and your dog want to do a happy tappy dance today?
I say, tap away.

PS: The band that started this whole thing?
Here’s the song: The Longest Johns – Moby Duck

Enjoy this post?
This started out as a story for my email subscribers, but it felt too fun (and useful) not to share here.
If you’d like more lighthearted dog training advice with a salty twist, hop on my email list or follow me on Facebook.
Bonus points if you send me your dog’s best dance moves. 💃🐾

The post How Procrastination, Sea Shanties, and a Dancing Dog Taught Me to Work Smarter appeared first on Axe Valley Dog Training.

Loose lead walking is one of those skills that seems simple… until you try to teach it. If you’ve found yourself frustrated on walks, wondering why your dog still pulls despite all your efforts, you’re not alone. Many pet parents struggle with this, even after trying multiple training tips.

Sometimes, it’s not about needing more effort — it’s about making a few important tweaks. Here are four common things that could be sabotaging your loose lead walking progress, and how to fix them.

1. Using a Flexi Lead

They seem convenient, right? Your dog gets more freedom, and you don’t have to hold a long line. But here’s the problem: there’s always tension on a flexi lead — and that constant tension teaches your dog that pulling is normal.

Loose lead walking starts with, well… a loose lead. When there’s always pressure, your dog never learns to check in with you or that staying close pays off. Switching to a fixed-length lead can make a big difference — it gives you clearer communication, and helps your dog learn when the lead is loose and when it’s not.

2. Starting at the End

Ever tried to train your dog on the way to the park or beach? It’s like trying to teach someone to drive… starting on the motorway.

Loose lead walking is a tough skill, especially with high distractions. Begin training in a quiet, low-distraction area — even your hallway or garden is a great starting point. Build your dog’s skills there before taking things on the road.

3. Not Rewarding Enough

Loose lead walking is hard work for your dog. The world is full of smells, sights, and sounds — it’s like a theme park for their senses!

Make walking nicely worth it. Use rewards your dog actually cares about: high-value treats, a favourite toy, or even access to something exciting (like a sniffy spot!) after a few good steps. Celebrate the behaviour you want to see.

4. Letting Them Pull… Sometimes

We’ve all done it — your dog pulls, and just this once, you let it happen.

Here’s the problem: dogs do what works. If pulling sometimes gets them what they want, they’ll keep trying. That inconsistency teaches them that pulling is still worth the effort.

If you’re short on time and can’t train properly, it’s okay to skip the walk. Play a game at home or do some enrichment instead. You’ll make more progress long-term by being consistent.

Final Thoughts

Loose lead walking is a journey — not a quick fix. But it is doable with the right approach.

Start small. Be clear. Reward generously. And most importantly, be kind to both yourself and your dog as you learn together.

If you’re ready to enjoy walks that feel good for both you and your dog, start here 👉Download my free guide, “3 Simple Steps for Stress-Free Walks.” It’s quick, practical, and will help you start seeing change in just a few days.

Click here to download it.

Need More Help?

If loose lead walking is still a struggle and you’d like personalised support, I’m here to help.

👣 Head to my 1-1 dog training page to learn more about how we can work together:
👉 axevalleydogtraining.co.uk/dog-training

Let’s take the stress out of walks — and help you and your dog enjoy them again. 🐾

The post Still Struggling With Loose Lead Walking? These 4 Things Might Be Getting in the Way appeared first on Axe Valley Dog Training.

Does your dog chase everything that moves?

If your walks feel more like a game of tug-of-war every time your dog spots a squirrel, or if you’re worried your dog may never come back the second you unclip the lead, you’re not alone. Many dog guardians struggle with high prey drive, and it can be frustrating and stressful. But don’t worry—prey drive isn’t a bad thing! With the right management and training, you can channel this natural instinct into something positive.

Let’s dive into what it is, how to manage it, and how to work with your dog instead of against them.

What is Prey Drive?

Prey drive is your dog’s natural instinct to find, chase, and capture prey. Historically, dogs needed this drive to survive—if they didn’t hunt, they didn’t eat. While modern dogs no longer need to hunt for food, the instinct remains deeply ingrained.

Over time, we have bred dogs to strengthen certain hunting instincts, creating breeds that are great at herding, fetching, tracking, and catching pests.

How to Tell if a Dog Has High Prey Drive

Dogs with a high prey drive often display some or all of the following behaviours:

• Tracking scents in the air or on the ground
• Fixating on and staring at small animals (including small dogs) and potential prey
• Stalking towards animals
• Chasing anything that moves
• Lunging or biting at moving objects
• Pulling on the lead when spotting prey

Do Terriers Have a Strong Prey Drive?

Yep! Terriers were basically designed to be tiny, fearless exterminators—chasing critters underground. They’re the ultimate rat-busting machines! Thanks to this history, most terriers have a prey drive that’s cranked up to eleven compared to other breeds.

Can You Train a Dog to Have Less Prey Drive?

No, but you can manage it. Prey drive is a natural instinct—you can’t remove it, and trying to suppress it can lead to frustration and unwanted behaviours. Instead, focus on providing appropriate outlets for your dog’s prey drive.

Imagine if an alien species raised you and stopped you from engaging in natural human behaviours—like talking, laughing, or expressing yourself. How would you feel? Frustrated, anxious, destructive? The same applies to our dogs.

How to Manage a Dog with High Prey Drive

1. Prevention

• Prevent your dog from rehearsing unwanted behaviours.
• Use a lead in areas with high prey distractions (e.g., around livestock, busy wildlife areas, parks).

2. Provide Suitable Outlets

• Engage in games and training that satisfy their needs.

3. Build Engagement with Your Dog

• Have fun together outdoors, not just at home.

4. Teach Impulse Control

• Training exercises like ‘leave it’ and ‘wait’ can help.

5. Train a Reliable Recall

• But remember, if your dog is having fun with you, they’ll naturally want to stay close.

Prevention is key. If your dog experiences the thrill of chasing prey, stopping them from running off the next time will be even harder. Keeping them on a lead in high-risk areas is the easiest way to avoid this problem.

👉 If you’d like support building a recall your prey-driven dog can actually follow, you might enjoy my follow-up blog: How to Train a Rock-Solid Recall for High-Prey-Drive Dogs.
It walks you through step-by-step training, safe rewards, long-line work, and how to avoid poisoning your cue.

What Games and Toys Are Good for Dogs with High Prey Drive?

Engaging your dog in the right activities can help satisfy their instincts and improve their behaviour. Here are some ones to try:

• Chasing toys & games – Toys that mimic prey movements like these
• Scent trails & tracking games – Great for working their brains. Come and have a go in our scentwork classes.
• Mantrailing – A fun way to use your dog’s tracking skills. Also covered in our scentwork classes.
• Retrieve – A fantastic outlet for the chase instinct
• Sheepballs – A great herding-style game for the collies and wannabe sheepdogs
• Barn Hunt – An increasingly popular activity that channels your dog’s inner terrier 
• Stalking games – Teaching your dog to calmly watch moving food.
• Gundog training – Excellent for breeds with a strong hunting instinct

The Key: Have Fun with Your Dog!

Your dog wants to enjoy their instincts with you. If you engage with them in the right way, they’ll see you as the most exciting part of their world. And guess what? This naturally improves recall and strengthens your bond.

Final Thoughts

Prey drive isn’t something to be ‘fixed’—it’s something to be understood and worked with. By managing it correctly and providing the right outlets, you’ll have a happy, fulfilled dog who looks to you for guidance instead of running off at the first sign of movement.

Have you experienced challenges with your dog’s prey drive? What strategies have worked for you? Let’s chat in the comments!

The post Prey Drive in Dogs: What It Is and How to Manage It appeared first on Axe Valley Dog Training.